Fake Absinthe: Key takeaways
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Pre-ban absinthe from before the absinthe prohibition (1915) is very rare and, consequently, expensive.
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A genuine bottle of original pre-ban absinthe costs approx. 3000 - 4000 Euros.
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Unfortunately, there are also fake pre-ban absinthes on the market.
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However, fakes can be identified by certain characteristics, depending on their level of professionalism.
Real Absinthe from before the prohibition
Absinthe is a spirit with a long, fascinating history. To understand the desirability of an original pre-ban absinthe, we would like to briefly discuss the history of absinthe first.
The name "Absinthe" comes from the Latin word "Absinthium", meaning wormwood. Wormwood, in turn, is the characteristic ingredient of this high-proof spirit. Furthermore, the basic ingredients of an original absinthe are green anise and fennel. Depending on the recipe, other herbs are used. The initially clear absinthe is colored with herbs after distillation and is therefore typically green, which is why it also has the nickname "Green Fairy" (La Fée Verte).
In 1769, the first known advertisement for a wormwood-based elixir called "Bon Extrait d'Absinthe" appeared in a newspaper in Neuchâtel (Switzerland). In 1792, Dr. Ordinaire developed a revised recipe consisting of 8 plants, including wormwood, anise, hyssop, and fennel, combined with 68% alcohol. The recipe was sold in 1797 to French Major Dubied, who, together with his son and son-in-law (H.L. Pernod), built the first absinthe factory in Switzerland (Couvet) and marketed absinthe as a luxury item, as opposed to a purely medicinal use.
Absinthe in the 19th century
During the conquest war in Algeria in 1830, the French army used the disinfectant properties of absinthe. The alcohol rations were primarily intended to disinfect contaminated water. The troops loved absinthe, especially for its intoxicating side effects and, of course, its excellent taste. Upon their return home, they did not want to give up their beloved glass of absinthe, so nothing stood in the way of absinthe's triumph for now. Drinking absinthe became more and more an expression of the times and was accepted by all levels of society.
Many great works of art owe their existence to the secret of the "Green Fairy". Great names like Baudelaire, Manet, Verlaine, Rimbaud, Oscar Wilde, Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, van Gogh, Gauguin, and Picasso are among these early passionate devotees of absinthe. However, this glory was soon to come to an end...
The Absinthe ban and its consequences
Switzerland was the first country to ban absinthe in 1910. This was partly due to the high alcohol consumption in society. On the other hand, pressure from the French wine lobby increased, which feared the competition of the new drink and consciously advocated for a ban on the Green Fairy. The argument was based on the supposedly toxic effect of absinthe, which was attributed to thujone, an active ingredient found in wormwood. In 1915, France followed with an absinthe ban, and in the following years, the drink was banned in almost all countries worldwide. The era of original pre-ban absinthe was over...
Tarragona Pernod Fils Absinthe and its re-legalization
Pernod Fils, the largest absinthe producer until then, moved a production facility to Tarragona, Spain, after the ban. Spain is still one of the only countries where absinthe was never banned. Thus, even after the worldwide absinthe ban, it was possible to produce original absinthe (with a slightly altered recipe). However, the product's reputation had been so damaged by negative worldwide reporting that sales for local Spanish consumption also remained rather low. In the early 1970s, production was therefore also ceased in Tarragona. However, original Tarragona Absinthe can still be bought today. The price for a bottle ranges between 1000 and 1900 Euros, depending on the condition and age of the bottle.
The drink "absinthe" fell into oblivion until it was re-legalized in 1998 due to changed EU legislation and experienced a new boom. Part of the fascination with absinthe lies in its stories and the myth that absinthe before the ban was the true, genuine absinthe, possessing immense amounts of thujone and thus causing hallucinations. This hallucinogenic effect of absinthe is humbug, but it persists stubbornly and can explain part of the fascination surrounding the drink. Nevertheless, genuine pre-ban absinthe, with its original recipe and centuries of aging, is considered by connoisseurs to be the true pinnacle of absinthe enjoyment.
Fake Absinthe: The work of criminals
Genuine absinthe from before the absinthe ban is extremely rare. Original bottles exist from cellar finds or liquidations of old hotel wine cellars. Prices here vary depending on the condition of the bottle and brand from 2000-6000 Euros. Original Pernod Fils Absinthe, the market leader at the turn of the century, is particularly sought after. Since Pernod Fils Absinthe was produced in large quantities during the heyday of absinthe, empty bottles are still relatively easy to find in flea markets and online auction houses. This fact is exploited by counterfeiters, which we would like to illustrate below.
Fake Absinthe: An Example
The bottle shown below is initially a genuine Pernod Fils Absinthe bottle with original Absinthe Pernod Fils labels and an Absinthe Pernod Fils glass seal on the bottle neck. However, the bottle was subsequently refilled, re-corked, and sealed with wax to simulate a historical Absinthe Pernod Fils produced before 1914. Clear signs of counterfeiting are visible.
Authenticity: Aluminum Foil and Wax Seal
Specifically, this is evident in the fact that the aluminum foil of the bottle neck does not continue under the wax seal in the cork area. This is the case with unopened bottles. The absence of the foil here is therefore a clear sign that the bottle has already been opened. The wax seal has also been reapplied. Although it appears old visually, this is only because it has been superficially rubbed with dirt (presumably ash) to simulate aging. A light green color is visible at the edges, which would have darkened on a historical bottle. Multiple layers are clearly visible on the wax seal, meaning the counterfeiter was careless and did not bother to completely remove the originally applied wax. This is also an indication of counterfeiting.
Real or Not? Provenance of the Bottle
In addition to the obvious signs of counterfeiting mentioned above, the provenance of the bottle also points to a fake. The bottle to be examined was sold at an auction on ebay.fr on January 26, 2019. As can be seen in the auction photo, the bottle was empty at the time of the auction.
Shortly thereafter, the bottle was offered for sale by a counterfeiter from London well-known in the absinthe scene. A comparison of the bottles shows the same characteristic features. It can undoubtedly be assumed that the bottle is not a historical Pernod Fils Absinthe. The bottle was subsequently refilled by the counterfeiter. It is clearly a fake.
Buying genuine Pre-ban Absinthe
Without a doubt, owning genuine vintage absinthe remains the crowning glory of an absinthe collection. However, caution must be exercised when buying. In particular, the wax seal and the aluminum foil underneath are excellent indicators of the absinthe's authenticity. However, as seen in the described case, these can also be faked. Unnatural signs of aging, such as rubbing with ash/dirt, can be another indicator of counterfeiting.
Often, however, simpler characteristics already expose a fake. For example, the bottle may not match the original bottle used at the time. This is because even empty original absinthe bottles are a rarity. It is also possible that the wax seal typical of old absinthe bottles is completely missing or that a cork that looks too new seals the bottle. And, of course, one should always be cautious with a supposedly too good "bargain"...
Green greetings from the world of absinthe,
Mike from the ALANDIA Team